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ZF4HP22 FAQs




What oil temperature should my ZF be running at ?

there is a good guide to oil temps here

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My Autogearbox is now only able to select reverse. Why?

Your A clutch (forward drive) has failed and you will require a replacment autobox.

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I have just fitted a rebuilt ZF gearbox but the gear shifting speeds is nothing like it used to be. I have to rev the engine really hard to make it change up. Why?

Check the setting of the kick down cable, if it is too tight the gearbox will think you have more throttle applied than is the case. Check and adjust the gearbox accordingly. As a guide the looser the cable, the earlier it will shift, visa versa the tighter the cable, the later it will shift.

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I have a 4sp ZF, the car has suddenly become very "sluggish" pulling away, but once the engine gets up to 2,000 RPM ish the car pulls okay. Why?

It sounds like the torque converter sprag clutch is slipping. Two common symptoms are 1) as you describe sluggish pulling away; sprag clutch is slipping which effectively means no torque multiplication; and 2) the sprag clutch has seized. In this case the car pulls away fine but at 2,000-RPM ish it feels like the brakes are jammed on. Solution – replace the Torque Converter.

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What oil should I use in my Auto ZFHP22?

We recommend you use AFT Dextron 2/3.

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I have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why?

The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into postion before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox.

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When I start my Automatic Range Rover in the mornings it takes a while to engage drive, it hasn’t always done this. This has become worse in the cold weather. Why?

It sounds like you need to change the filter! In the cold weather, i.e when the oil is cold and more viscous, if the filter is partially blocked it will take some time for the pump to draw oil through it. Once the oil becomes warm it flows more freely and can pass through the filter more easily. Hence the problem only occurs when the oil is cold. To remedy this problem your filter needs to be changed. This should be done sooner rather later to reduce the possibility of damage to the autobox, by the clutches “slipping” during this slow engagement.

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When I start my Automatic Range Rover in the mornings it takes a while to engage drive, it has not always done this. This has become worse in the cold weather. Why?

It sounds like you need to change the filter! In the cold weather, i.e when the oil is cold and more viscous, if the filter is partially blocked it will take some time for the pump to draw oil through it. Once the oil becomes warm it flows more freely and can pass through the filter more easily. Hence the problem only occurs when the oil is cold. To remedy this problem your filter needs to be changed. This should be done sooner rather later to reduce the possibility of damage to the autobox, by the clutches “slipping” during this slow engagement.

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I have a 4sp ZF, when I select "D" the vehicle won't move, when I select "1" the vehicle moves off. I can then select "D" and continue to drive normally. If I stop I have to start in first again. Why?

A sprag clutch has "inverted" and will need replacing. No further damage will occur if you continue to drive but you will need to select "1" every time to start moving. A rebuild is required to correct this.

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I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why?

The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox.

We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs.

We can supply rebuilt exchange autoboxes and offer a sameday fitting service, with free use of a courtesy car. Please call for details.

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