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Transfer Boxes FAQs




I have a P38 Range Rover and when I pull off with hard throttle I get a bang bang bang from the transfer case area

This is the chain in the transfer case jumping over the sprockets, needs a rebuild or at least a new chain.

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I have a Range Rover 3.9 Classic and have lost all drive.

First of all check you have lost both forward and reverse. If this is the case (if not see end of paragraph) it could be that the output shaft or viscous coupling splines have stripped. To check remove front propshaft or lift a front wheel and try rotating the front output flange with your mainbox in "park", if you have an automatic, or 1st gear if you have a manual, and the handbrake applied. If the viscous coupling spline has gone the flange will rotate easily. If the mainshaft spline has failed the effect will be similar but you will hear some sound as the centre differential rotates around the damaged spline. The transfer box will need a full rebuild. If you have an auto and have just lost forward it will be the A clutch in the autobox and the autobox will need a rebuild.

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I want to change the input gear on my LT230 for a later cross drilled type, can I do this in situ or do I have to take the transfer box out?

This is only available on a suffix C or later (last number of transfer case), it cannot be changed on Suffix A or B transfer boxes. On a 1.667 or a 1.410 removal of the gear is simple, it just slides out; on a 1.222 it in necessary to rotate the intermediate gear to a position where the teeth on the middle and rear gears are in line and allow the input gear to slide through. It is not possible to change a 1.003 in situ.

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I have just fitted a new cross drilled input gear to my LT230 and it whines, is this normal?

Some "pattern" gears are not "crowned" during manufacture and will whine because of the edge contact this creates

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The difflock on my LT230 does not engage even though the selector rod moves to the right position. Why?

Sometimes the difflock indicator switch sticks and this prevents the difflock selector mechanism moving across. Back off the switch one turn and try difflock again.

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I have just fitted a rebuilt LT230 transfer box and it is locked solid, i.e. I cannot turn it, why?

Check that the bolts you used to bolt the transfer box to the main box are in the correct positions. It is possible to fit a "longer" bolt in a position which will jam the intermediate gear and prevent it rotating. There are three bolts down each side attaching the transfer box to the main box and it is the middle of the three on the right hand side that causes the problem. On earlier transfer boxes a "stud" was fitted in this position to reduce the possibility of error. Sometimes the stud is omitted on later boxes or rebuilds.

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What oil should I use in my Borg Warner transfer box?

We recommend you use ATF Dextron 2/3 in your Borg Warner transfer box?

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The tyres on my Range Rover are scrubbing when parking, any idea why?

If your vehicle is pre 1989 you have the LT230 and I would suggest it is stuck in difflock. If your vehicle is after 1989, Classic or New Shape, then you have the Borg Warner transfer box. When the tyres scrub this indicates the Viscous Coupling unit within the transfer box has seized and needs replacing. We can supply either rebuilt transfer boxes or replacement Viscous Coupling units on their own. Be warned, neglecting this problem causes immense strain on the drive train, which often results in failure of CV joints and/or differentials, as well as rapid tyre wear. For information on fitting a coupling please visit our website and for prices please see below

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I have just installed a reconditioned LT230 transfer box and cannot get the difflock adjustment set properly. I checked the difflock input shaft before installing the transfer box and it does rotate through all three positions. But when I try to set the adjustment on the pivot bolt it either stays in difflock or will not engage difflock. What should I do?

The most common error when setting the difflock is not understanding which position to set the input shaft to. As you noticed there are three positions on the difflock input shaft; counterclockwise, centre and clockwise. The counterclockwise position is a "dummy" i.e. not used. You need to set the linkage up to move from centre position to clockwise position. If you set this up to this position you should resolve your problem.

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I want to raise the gearing on my Series I,II,III. Overdrives are getting hard to come by and expensive, what alternatives are there?

We make a “High Ratio Transfer Case Kit”. This has the effect of permanently raising high range by 32% and leaves low range ratio unchanged. This is as strong and quiet as the original, cost effective and can be used with the PTO. It does not necessitate the re-calibration of the Speedo. We are only able to supply this in kit form.

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